Away Days

Always good to have a break by the sea even if the surf doesn’t live up to expectations (or forecasts)-you can always hope tomorrow will be better! Got in 5 times anyway and enjoyed the caress of that icy North Sea, the smoky twilight shaking across the waves, the fun of riding even the messy and small, the challenge of keeping warm(ish), the early February sun struggling to be noticed and the biting air hitching our breath!

Winter surfs avoid the crowds – what bliss to have a beach to yourself-maybe a seal to keep you company!-the downside is changing afterwards on the roadside, but hell it’s always worth the hassle-more surf breaks please can’t get enough!

Waves for October

Time out again for returning to the rhythms of the sea. A strange October day, very autumnal with the sky casting a leaden gloom of grey and the mist hanging like an apparition above the beach.
We paddled out feeling the familiar undulations of the ocean beneath our boards, anxios to ride and reclaim our sanity.
Ropes of swell slap the shore- line on an easterly wind. Some clean fair sized peaks, some messed up. Long lefts and a few short rights. Medium tide causing the mid -sized waves to back off quickly, the biggest rolling nicely all the way inside.
Kept us stoked for the afternoon-a real tonic!

At last a chanc…

At last a chance to get in the water- getting withdrawal symptoms!  Wheels back on the road and raring to go!

What a great feeling to hit the surf again!

2-3′ and rather messy but such fun! A late one today- could have surfed all night felt really energised!

A fantastic sky to boot with amazing shades of blue and pink with the black shapes of sea birds winging over us to roost. The light was magic.

A day to remember.

June 28th

How lucky were we today! Been waiting with added frustration for flat waves and crazy winds to change-unable to take advantage of a couple of reasonable loking days-this Wednesday was our last opportunity for June.

The forecast was wet but waves should materialise at 3-4′ according to Magic Seaweed! This seemed to change overnight to 1′ slop-anything else a bonus from the eyeball report! On arrival the first bay seemed to bear this out! We continued undeterred to find the next beach sporting a squeaky clean 2′ wave which was building steadily.

We scrambled to get in before it disappeared and enjoyed an hour plus of solid surfing on 2-3 footers rolling towards us in lovely clean lines. Lots of rides, hardly any rain and real June sunshine.No better way to spend an afternoon. We left reluctantly ,greedy for more and hoping summer will bring many more days when we can have fun in the waves, improve our skills and feel totally stoked!

Surf with Sun!

A late surf today because of the tide but it worked out well. The day had started with wind and rain quite miserable and typical of this wash out June! By 2’oclock however,the sun was shining and the wind had dropped leaving clean 3 footers hitting the wall. We had a coffee and waited till the sand showed under the white water.

It was great to be in and feel the sun on your face. The waves were full of joy, tumbling, and sliding towards us you could almost hear their laughter on this wonderful day! We caught everything we could, practising our turns and winging our way along the lip.

What a privilege to be here today and be part of  this place, the ocean, the beach, the blue,blue sky. Would it could last forever-tomorrow seems years away!

Slowly Returning!

The last day of May under a marbled sky as waves brush the sand giving some nice , clean faces.

A wet afternoon with the promise of  bluer skies over the horizon.

Still have to be careful, still wearing the helmet, did have a fracture, so just a stroll in the park today.

Great to be part of the sea again and getting warmer too!

The first half hour gave away  lots of fun rides-3’plus.

Later the cross shore wind kicked in and messed things up a bit but an enjoyable sesh and the sun came out which is always a bonus!

Second surf this month-never got to write up the last one but good to be back in the frame -even a rather tame one!

 

April 23rd

Set off today hoping to get some small clean waves and not disappointed! A wonderful afternoon -really felt making progress and regaining confidence! Irridescent light with a glimmer of sun behind the clouds and hardly any wind. I surfed a full hour marvelling at the beauty of the bay and riding some great waves – they built steadily to a good 3 foot and were as clean as a whistle! Another magic maker- we had the place to ouselves cannot beat it!

The weather was kind enough to let us  picnic afterwards-swopping our stories, munching sandwiches and swigging coffee. All completely stoked .

I’M Back

Hi Folks-finally got in the water again! A nervy start and no tricks-just some gentle clean waves and fun white water! Spent amazing week during our 7 day summer in March. Really good to get surf, sun and no crowds. Perfect for me, really felt better and hope confidence will grow. Helped  by helmet loaned from a friend – thanks for all invaluable support from familyand friends- so good to be have your help and to be surfing again. Things can only improve!

The Accident

Today was a not a good day. Began well enough. A bright,  mild, morning with some winter sun pushing through the grey skyscape. The waves were pumping, the odd gnarly one and quite a breeze but lots of dudes out there so we hurried in to join the party!

Conditions a little tricky but we got plenty of rides. After about 50 mins, coming down the face of the wave I was edged off balance by a sly wave pushing sideways. As I wiped out I felt the board hit my nose. Shit! Hadn’t got my hands up quickly enough! Hoped it was nothing much and began to paddle out again till my mate yelled at me to go in. As I paused blood cascaded onto my gloves and board and I buried my head in the waves to try and stench the flow and reduce any swelling.

After 10 minutes or so we struggled to the car, where after changing , my companion insisted on a check out at the local A&E.

They didn’t think my nose was broken but couldn’t be sure. Blood pressure was high, they stuck the cut together, gave me painkillers and off I went already sporting an elephant nose and the start of two black eyes! I slumped in the car gratefully as my good mate drove back.

I didn’t feel great but carried on fairly normally for the next few days, did no sport and rested a bit. By the 4th day I felt decidedly ill. My head was pounding and throbbing alarmingly and I felt pretty weak. The doc was fully booked and the drop in medical centre sent me straight to A&E. By this time my blood pressure had rocketed, my limbs were going numb I couldn’t lift them and I was shaking uncontrollably.

The CT scan fortunately revealed no fracture just bad bruising and swelling of the brain causing concussion. I was instructed to rest and do nothing for at least 3 weeks.

That was 2 weeks ago and Ifeel I am just beginning to turn the corner. The frightening pounding, swelling, pulsating and burning in my head is diminishing each day and slowly I am regaining some strength and managing to stay awake!

I am very lucky to have a loving and supportive family caring for me and making this  time as easy as possible. I owe them all big time!

It was a nasty experience and I fear I shall have lost confidence out back. There have been whispers about helmets but I don’t really want that. I am hoping in the next couple of months when I get back in the waves I shall still feel the old thrill and be able to put this out of my mind! After all it happens to the best, see last issue of ‘Carve’ mag-Keala Kennelly’s story.

Meanwhile -sorry no blog for a while-but watch this space folks!

Weekend Break

How wonderful to stay over, have somewhere warm to change and a hot shower! We chose a good time-big tides, full moon and wild ,wild seas! The atmosphere was amazing-our first day it was so windy we were almost swept out to sea despite an incoming tide! There was a beautiful, primeaval quality about the deserted beach and the wind and driving rain -electrifying. The next day was photo opportunities galore with a sea of massive stallions tossing their manes and filling the sky with foam and spray. Literally walls of water charging in. We sought a calmer beach but the conditions were very difficult.We had a serious board accident with the wind but fortunately just the board and not us!

It always seems to improve your surfing to get more than one day in a row. I felt as though I made progress and gained in confidence though whether that will last only time will tell! Whatever happens it was a great break we felt truly stoked and I shall treasure the memories.